| FOREWORD |
| AUTHORITIES QUOTED |
| CHAPTER I HENRY VII (1485-1509) |
| SYNOPSIS. |
| Contemporary Sovereigns |
| Historical Data |
| "The Arts: Sculpture, Memorial Brasses, Tapestry, Illum. MSS., Portraits and Painters" |
| Section I |
| "Introduction, Royalty and Nobility, Men: Henry VII" |
| "Nobility, Men" |
| "Flemish, English, and French Fashions" |
| "French Fashions, Charles VIII" |
| "Italian Influences, Bases" |
| "Louis XII, The Emperor Maximilian, Archduke Philippe le Beau, Ferdinand V of Aragon" |
| Tenyse' |
| Perfumes and Pomanders |
| "Embroidery, Spanish Work, Cutwork, The Origin of Stumpwork" |
| The Yeomen of the Guard |
| "Royalty and Nobility, Women: Elysabeth of York, The Lady Margaret Beaufort" |
| "Nobility, Women, English, Flemish, and French" |
| "Spanish styles: Isabella of Castile, Joanna, Katherine of Aragon" |
| "The Lady Margaret Tudor, Marguerite, Archduchess of Austria, Anne, Duchess of Brittany" |
| Underclothes |
| Section II |
| "Middle and Lower Classes: Introduction, Professional, Gentry, Merchants, Lower Classes" |
| "Middle-class Women: Gentry, Merchants' Wives" |
| Lower Classes |
| Section III |
| "Hairdressing, Men: Middle and Lower Classes" |
| "Headgear, The French Bonet" |
| Headdresses |
| Hairdressing |
| The Gable Headdress |
| Hairdressing |
| Flemish Headdresses |
| Spanish-Italian Headdresses |
| French Headdresses |
| "Flemish, The Béguin" |
| Footgear |
| "Jewellery: Crowns, Collars, Neckchains, Jewels, Enseignes, Brooches, Enamels, Pendants, Bracelets, Rings" |
| Guilds and Trade |
| Weaving and Materials |
| List of Materials |
| Patterns |
| Colours |
| "Vehicles: Introduction, The Litter, The Carriage" |
| CHAPTER II HENRY VIII (1509-47) |
| SYNOPSIS. |
| Contemporary Sovereigns |
| Historical Data |
| "The Arts: Sculpture, Memorial Brasses, Tapestry, Illum. MSS., Portraits and Painters" |
| Section I |
| "Royalty and Nobility, Men: Henry VIII" |
| Some Officers of a Royal Household |
| "Italian Influences, Bases" |
| Landsknechten |
| "James IV, Charles Brandon, Thomas Wolsey, the Emperor Charles V, The Field of the Cloth of Gold, Henry VIII, Francis I" |
| "French Fashions, Francis I" |
| "Tenyse'. Royalty and Nobility, Women: Katherine of Aragon" |
| The Spanish Farthingale |
| The Lady Margaret Tudor |
| "Spanish Styles: Eleanor, Archduchess of Austria, The Lady Mary Tudor I, The Field of the Cloth of Gold, The Lady Mary Tudo |
| French Fashions: The Princess Claude of France |
| The Corset |
| The Fan |
| Underclothes |
| "Embroidery, Spanish Work, Stumpwork, Interlaced Work, Turkey Work" |
| Lace |
| Section II |
| "Royalty and Nobility, Men: Henry VIII" |
| "French Fashions: Francis I, Francois Rabelais, The Emperor Charles V, James V" |
| The Glove |
| The Handkerchief |
| "Nightshirts, Nightcaps, and Nightgowns. Royalty and Nobility, Women: Katherine, Anne Boleyn, Elizabeth Tudor, Jane Seymour, The Lady Mary Tudor II" |
| Perfumes and Pomanders |
| "French Fashions: Eleanor Archduchess of Austria, Anne de Heilly, Diane de Poitiers, Catherine dé Medici, Brantôme, The Lady anne of Cleves, Catherine Howard, Catherine Parr, The Ladies Mary and Elizabeth" |
| The Yeomen of the Guard |
| Gentlemen Pensioners |
| Section III |
| "Middle Classes: Professional, Gentry, Countrymen" |
| Middle Classes: Women |
| Lower Classes: Women |
| Section IV |
| Hairdressing |
| Headgear |
| "Headdresses: The Gable Headdress, The Béguin, French Version of the Béguin" |
| Spanish Reticulated Caul |
| "French Headdresses, The French Hood, The Bag-back Hood" |
| "Fancy Headdresses, Middle Classes" |
| Footgear |
| "Jewellery: Crowns and Coronets, Collars, Chains, Carcanets, Enseignes and Bonet Ornaments, Girdles, Finger Rings, Pendants and Jewels" |
| Clocks |
| Guilds and Trade |
| Weaving and Materials |
| List of Materials |
| Patterns |
| Colours |
| "Vehicles: Chariot, Charrette, Char, Litter" |
| Horses |
| CHAPTER III EDWARD VI (1547-53); QUEEN MARY (1553-8) |
| SYNOPSIS. |
| Contemporary Sovereigns |
| Historical Data |
| "The Arts: Sculpture, Memorial Brasses, Tapestry, Portraits and Painters" |
| Section I |
| "Royalty and Nobility, Men: Edward VI" |
| "French Fashions: Henry II, The Emperor Charles V" |
| "Spanish Styles: Maximilian, Philip of Spain" |
| "Nobility, Men: Edward Courtenay" |
| Embroidery |
| Lace |
| The Yeomen of the Guard |
| Gentlemen Pensioners |
| Middle Classes |
| "The Boys of Christ's Hospital. Royalty and Nobility, Women: The Lady Jane Grey" |
| "Spanish Styles, The Lady Mary" |
| "French Fashions: Eleanor, Archduchess of Austria, Catherine de' Medici, Mary Stuart, Queen Mary, Jane Guyldeford" |
| Section II |
| Hairdressing |
| Headgear |
| "Hairdressing, Women" |
| "Headdresses: The French Hood, Other French Headdresses" |
| Foo |
| "Jewellery: Collars, Pendants, Rings" |
| Guilds and Trade |
| "Weaving, Colours" |
| Patterns |
| "Vehicles: Coach, Char" |
| CHAPTER IV QUEEN ELIZABETH (1558-1603) |
| SYNOPSIS. |
| Contemporary Sovereigns |
| Historical Data |
| "The Arts: Sulpture, Memorial Brasses, Tapestry, Illum. MSS., Portraits and Painters" |
| Section I |
| "Queen Elizabeth: Introduction, Appearance, Character, Accomplishments, Wardrobe, State Robes, Other Costumes, Furniture. Nobility, Women: The Farthingale, The Corset, The Ruff or Band, The Veil, The Fan" |
| "Margaret Douglas, Mary Stuart" |
| "The Baldachin, Sunshade, Umbrella" |
| Mourning Robes |
| Frances Sidney |
| Masks |
| "Nobility, Men: Henry Stewart, Lord Edward Seymour, James VI" |
| "Personages of Distinction about the Court: William Cecil, Robert Dudley, Sir Christopher Hatton, Edward de Vere, Sir Philip Sidney, Sir John Hawkyns" |
| "The Doublet, The Jerkin, Corsets" |
| "Trunks or Slps, and Hosen" |
| Stockings |
| Cloaks |
| Swords and Daggers |
| The Handkerchief |
| The Glove |
| "Perfumes, Pomanders, and Roses" |
| "French Fashions: Charles IX, Henry, Duc d'Anjou, Francis, Duc d'Alenço |
| "Noble Ladies: Louise, Queen-Consort of Henry III, Marguerite de Valois,Marie de' Medici" |
| Italian Influences |
| Italian Ladies |
| "Spanish Styles: Philip II, Philip III" |
| "Noble Ladies: The Great Infanta, Margaret of Austria" |
| Tenyse' |
| The Yeomen of the Guard |
| Gentlemen Pensioners |
| Section III |
| "Middle Classes: Gentry, Merchants and Burghers" |
| London Apprentices |
| Yeomen |
| Lower Classes: Peasants and the Poor |
| Middle-class Women: Gentlewomen |
| Lower Classes |
| A Tudor Country Wedding Procession |
| Section IV |
| "Hairdressing, Men: French Hairdressing, Italian Hairdressing, Spanish Hairdressing" |
| "Headgear: Hats, Caps, Etiquette connected with Headgear" |
| "Hairdressing, Women: Fancy Hairdressing, French Hairdressing, Italian Hairdressing, Spanish Hairdressing" |
| "Headdresses: The French Hood, Hats, Other Headdresses of Mary Stuart, Cauls and Capes, Head Ornaments, French Headdresses, Widows' Weeds, Italian Headdresses, Spanish Headdresses" |
| Middle Classes |
| Footgear |
| Jewellery: Crowns, Collars, Chains, Carcanets, Necklaces, Pendants, Jewels, Miniatures, Jewels of Queen Elizabeth, Hat and Head Ornaments, Girdles, Bracelets, Earrings, Ruff and Sleeve Ornaments, Aiglettes, Finger Rings, French Jewellery, Jewels of Mary Stuart |
| Clocks |
| Watches |
| Guilds and Trade |
| Weaving and Mate |
| List of Materials |
| Patterns |
| List of Colours |
| "Vehicles: The Litter, Coach, Chair" |
| GENERAL INDEX TO BOOKS I AND II |
| INDEX OF NAMES IN BOOKS I AND II |
| ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR AND HALF-TONE |
| BOOK I |
| I. KING HENRY VII AND QUEEN ELYSABETH |
| II A. "ISABELLA, QUEEN OF CASTILE" |
| II B. "FERDINAND V, KING OF ARAGON" |
| III. "YEOMEN OF THE GUARD, 1501-30 AND 1530-50" |
| IV. QUEEN ELYSABETH OF YORK |
| V. "JOANNA, QUEEN OF CASTILE" |
| VI. "AN ENGLISH NOBLEMAN, 1510" |
| VII. "A LANDSKNECHT; FRANCIS I, KING OF FRANCE" |
| VIII A. "CHARLES, COMTE DE FLANDRES, 1506" |
| VIII B. "CHARLES, V, KING OF THE ROMANS 1526" |
| IX. "KING HENRY VIII AT THE FIELD OF THE CLOTH OF GOLD, 1520" |
| X A. "THE PRINCESS KATHERINE OF ARAGON, 1501" |
| X B. "KING HENRY VIII, 1521" |
| XI. "ELEANOR OF AUSTRIA, QUEEN OF PORTUGAL, c. 1518" |
| XII. "THE PRINCESS MARY TUDOR, 1514" |
| XIII. "KING HENRY VIII, 1542" |
| XIV. "FRANCIS I, KING OF FRANCE" |
| XV. "QUEEN JANE SEYOMOUR, 1536" |
| XVI. "A NOBLE LADY OF THE COURT OF HENRY VIII, 1530-40" |
| XVII. "A NOBLE LADY, 1540-50" |
| XVIII. ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY |
| BOOK II |
| XIX KING EDWARD VI |
| XX. KING EDWARD VI |
| XXI. "HENRY II, KING OF FRANCE, 1558" |
| XXII. "PRINCE PHILIP OF SPAIN, 1554" |
| XXIII. "YEOMEN OF THE GUARD, 1550-75 and 1575-95" |
| XXIV. "THE LADY JANE GREY, 1553" |
| XXV. "QUEEN MARY, 1553" |
| XXVI. "QUEEN MARY, 1554" |
| XXVII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH IN CORONATION ROBES, 1559" |
| XXVIII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH WITH GODDESSES, 1560" |
| XXIX. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1560-70" |
| XXX. "QUEEN ELIZBETH, 1570" |
| XXXI. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1570-75: FOUR SUBJECTS" |
| XXXII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1578-85: FOUR SUBJECTS" |
| XXXIII. "MARY STUART, QUEEN OF SCOTLAND AND FRANCE, 1560-1" |
| XXXIV. "MARY STUART, QUEEN OF SCOTLAND, 1562" |
| XXXV. "CATHERINE DÉ MEDICI AND HER FAMILY, 1561" |
| XXXVI. "CHARLES IX, KING OF FRANCE, 1561" |
| XXXVII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1587" |
| XXXVIII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1588" |
| XXXIX. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1588" |
| XL. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1589" |
| XLI. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1589-94: FOUR SUBJECTS" |
| XLII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1590" |
| XLIII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH IN PARLIAMENT, 1601" |
| XLIV. "MARY FITTON, AGED 17, 1596" |
| XLV. "QUEEN ELIZABETH AT BLACKFRIARS, 1600" |
| XLVI. "PHILIP II, KING OF SPAIN, c. 1580" |
